Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: A note     

A.F. Velegrakis  M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas  Th. KarambasK. Dimou  Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007

This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms.  相似文献   

Analysis of estuarine colour components during non-monsoon period through Ocean Colour Monitor     

H.B. Menon  A.A. Lotliker  S.R. Nayak 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):523-531

Simultaneous acquisition of water samples, radiance and irradiance measurements were carried out from 40 stations in the Mandovi–Zuari estuaries during February to May 2002. From the samples collected, inherent and apparent optical properties (IOP and AOP) such as absorption coefficient (a), upwelling diffuse attenuation coefficient (k_u) and subsurface reflectance (R) were derived. Using these optical properties, radiative transfer at each water column is examined. On the basis of the radiative transfer outcome, band-ratio algorithms are derived for three optically active substances (OAS), viz, chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and coloured dissolved organic matter (CDOM). The respective algorithms are 670/555, 490/670 and 412/670 nm for chlorophyll-a, suspended sediment and CDOM. These algorithms are applied to Ocean Colour Monitor (OCM), onboard Indian Remote Sensing Satellite (IRS)-Polar Satellite Launch Vehicle (P4), scenes (digital data), to synoptically analyze these OAS. The synoptic analysis of OAS revealed different hydrodynamic characteristics of the estuaries during non-monsoon seasons.  相似文献   

崇明东滩沉积环境探讨   总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8  

刘清玉  戴雪荣  何小勤 《海洋地质前沿》2003,19(12):1-4

为探讨崇明东滩的沉积环境，了解崇明东滩的植被、水动力等对沉积的影响，对崇明进行了为期一年的实地观测和采样实验分析研究，研究结果表明：①沉积物中含有细砂、粉砂、黏土，其中粉砂是主要组分。塑造滩地的动力以潮汐作用为主，波浪作用居于次要地位；②沉积物的平均粒径自北线断面向南线断面、自高潮向低潮滩有逐渐变粗、分选变差的趋势，且平均粒径具有明显的季节变化；③潮滩季节性冲淤变化主要是与不同季节水文条件的差异性、潮滩植被季节变化及风暴天气等有关。  相似文献   

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing     

IB Danladi  M Gül  E Ateş 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(1):43-51

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.  相似文献   

远区台风“三巴”对长江口波浪动力场的作用机制     

任剑波  何青  沈健  徐凡  郭磊城  谢卫明  朱磊 《海洋科学》2020,44(5):12-23

针对远区台风对河口波浪动力场的影响问题,利用第三代波浪模式SWAN计算了远区台风"三巴"期间长江口波浪动力场分布,分析了陆架至河口区的波浪能量耗散和波致泥沙侵蚀的时空分布,发现波浪由外海向近岸传播过程中,波-波相互作用导致能量由高频向低频转换,周期和波长逐渐增大,近底层轨道流速增大,能量密度增高;阐明白帽破碎是维持深水区波浪能量平衡和限制波高成长的主要机制,底摩擦耗能和水深诱导的破碎耗能是长江口横沙东滩和崇明东滩邻近海域波高衰减的主要原因;提出波浪产生的底部切应力与相对水深有关,当波浪传播到浅水区时,波长和周期越大,波浪切应力越大。研究揭示了与河口相距数百公里的远区台风能够对长江口波浪动力场产生明显影响,河口水下三角洲前缘是最容易受到波浪侵蚀的区域,研究成果弥补了目前关于陆架远区台风对河口波浪动力场影响研究的不足,对深化认识远区台风对长江口动力环境、地貌演变、航运安全和滩涂保护等有重要科学意义。  相似文献   

Organic matter origin and distribution in suspended particulate materials and surficial sediments from the western Adriatic Sea (Italy)   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5  

T. Tesi  S. Miserocchi  M.A. Goi  L. Langone  A. Boldrin  M. Turchetto 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,73(3-4):431-446

In this study, organic carbon (OC), total nitrogen (TN), stable carbon isotopic (δ¹³C_OC) and CuO reaction product compositions were used to identify the sources of organic matter (OM) and to quantify the relative importance of allochthonous and autochthonous contributions to the western Adriatic Sea, Italy. Suspended particulate material (195 samples) and surficial sediments (0–1 cm, 70 samples) from shallow cross-shelf transects were collected in February and May 2003, respectively. Vertical water column profiles were acquired along the same transects. Data include depth, potential temperature, salinity, density and chlorophyll fluorimetry.Along the western Adriatic shelf in the near-shore region, the phytoplankton growth was influenced by dynamics of the buoyant plumes from the Po and Appennine rivers. A small amount of very fine terrigenous material remained suspended within the coastal current and was exported southward along the shelf to the slope. High variability in the bulk composition was detected in the Po prodelta surficial sediments, whereas the western Adriatic shelf, although a larger area, exhibited a narrower range of values.A significant decoupling was observed between suspended particles in the water column and surficial deposits. The organic material collected in the water column was compositionally heterogeneous, with contributions from marine phytoplankton, riverine–estuarine phytoplankton and soil-derived OM. Frequent physical reworking of surficial sediments likely leads to the efficient oxidation of marine OC, resulting in the observed accumulation and preservation of refractory soil-derived OC delivered by the Po and Appennine rivers.  相似文献   

黄河三角洲造陆速率对夏季风强度变化和人类活动的响应     

许炯心 《海洋学报》2007,29(5):88-94

以夏季风强度指数和年均气温作为反映气候变化的指数,以人类净引水量和流域水土保持面积作为反映人类活动变化的指标,并以黄河流域为例,研究了三角洲造陆对气候变化和人类活动的响应.研究表明,夏季风强度指数的变化可分为三个阶段:(1)在1951~1963年夏季风强度指数呈持续增强的变化趋势;(2)在1963~1965年夏季风强度指数呈突变式减弱;(3)在1966~2000年夏季风强度指数保持在较低的水平上,且呈缓慢减弱的趋势.年降水量变化与夏季风强度指数有同步关系.从1950到1970年的年均温度在波动中略呈降低趋势,然而从1970年开始年均温度在波动中具有持续上升的趋势.气候变化会导致入海泥沙通量的变化,并可能进一步导致三角洲造陆速率的变化.黄河三角洲造陆速率、入海泥沙通量在1952~1964年均呈增大的趋势,1964年后则呈减小的趋势,在总体上与夏季风强度指数的变化趋势相同.除了气候变化以外,流域水土保持和引水对三角洲造陆也有影响.多元回归分析表明,三角洲造陆速率随夏季风强度指数的减弱而减小,随年气温的升高而减小,随梯田林草面积的增加而减小,随年净引水量的增加而减小,同时还表明,夏季风强度指数、年均气温、水土保持措施面积和人类净引水量对三角洲造陆速率变化的贡献率分别为34.94%,3.80%,53.82%和7.44%.表示气候变化的两个变量的贡献率之和为38.7%,说明气候变化对黄河三角洲造陆过程的影响是不容忽视的.  相似文献   

南海中沙天然气水合物资源远景区海底沉积物的物理力学性质研究   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

魏巍 《海岸工程》2006,25(3):33-38

根据南海中沙天然气水合物远景区沉积物样品的分析资料,从物理力学特征各方面对本区海底沉积物进行了综合工程地质特征研究。结果表明,本区海底沉积物类型全部为淤泥,工程地质性质相近,以高含水率、高孔隙比、低密度及高塑性为主要特征,抗剪强度很小,压缩系数均大于0.5。土体沉积环境为水动力强度较弱的深海半深海环境。  相似文献   

Molecular phylogenetic analysis of sulfate-reducing bacteria from deep sediment layers of the tropical West Pacific warm pool     

LUO Zhuhu  YE Dezan  HUANG Xiangling 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(3):98-107

1IntroductionThe tropical West Pacific warm pool(TWP-WP),which spans an area roughly between10°Nto10°S of the equator from Indonesia to the dateline,has the world’s warmest sea surface temperature ofbeing greater than29℃.With the increase of recog-niz…  相似文献   

Seasonal and Spatial Variations of Total Mass Flux around Coral Reefs in the Southern Ryukyus,Japan     

Mohamed?IsmailEmail author  Tadashi?Kimura  Yumiko?Suzuki  Makoto?Tsuchiya 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(3):631-644

Total mass flux, size distribution of sediment particles and some chemical components such as total carbon (TC), total nitrogen (TN) and calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) were monitored monthly using a multi-cup sediment traps at seven coral reef sites (6 reef flat and 1 reef slope) of the Marine Protected Areas around Ishigaki, Kohama, Kuroshima and Iriomote Islands in the southern Ryukyus, Japan from September 2000 to September 2001. The size distribution of trapped sediments revealed mostly uni-modal fine sand to mud in the reef flat and gravelly to coarse sand in the reef slope. The total mass flux ranged between 0.54 to 872 gm⁻²d⁻¹, and showed a pronounced seasonality (high in summer-autumn and low in spring) at each site, which was consistent with the rainfall and typhoon regime. Exceptionally high values were observed on the reef slope (Iriomote) in February–March 2001 (1533 gm⁻²d⁻¹) owing to a large amount of bottom sediment re-suspension. On the reef flat (Todoroki South and North; Ishigaki), values obtained in July–August 2001 (872 gm⁻²d⁻¹) and August–September 2001 (800 gm^{− 2}d⁻¹) indicate the high terrestrial discharge from Todoroki River. Trapped sediment particles consist of CaCO₃ (1.2–27.1%) and a non-carbonate fraction (98.8–72.9%), which contains total carbon (4.9–26%), carbonate carbon (CO₂-C) (0.2–3.1%) and non-carbonate carbon (NC-C) (7.9–25.6%). Total nitrogen content was in the range 0.02–0.48%. TN is contained mainly in the carbonate fraction and NC-C may be contained in the non-carbonate fraction. The low TN/OC ratio of the trapped sediments suggests that they were mostly of terrestrial origin and that both fractions migrated. The high total mass flux derived from Todoroki River exceeded the threshold at which a lethal effect on coral community is caused. The results stress the importance of conducting seasonal studies of sedimentation over more than one year and at more than one location in south Japan coral reef ecosystems to gain an understanding of the processes controlling the total mass fluxes and their nutrients content, also to develop an awareness of how to prevent the damage of coral reef ecosystems and, if it does occur, to allow mitigation measures to be undertaken.  相似文献